Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Best surf day of my life so far...

Figured I'd start with today. I'm not always gonna share my days, but today was a good one.

After waking up extra early to tune into one of my new favorite people, James Andrew's, new online show (he's running a beta version to work out kinks and I'm honored to have been one of few chosen to be a part of it), I drove down to Frumin's cave in Dana Point for a surf. The night before, Mike (Frumin) told me that him and our boy Seth were gonna head out between 9:30-10am. For those of you who know Mike, what I'm about to tell you shouldn't come as a surprise at all...

I get to his house at quarter to ten and he's fast asleep. My favorite part tho, is that the first words that came out of his mouth as he actually popped up, where "you hungry!?!" Gotta love that dude. Anyways, I realized I better go get my laptop and knock out some work because nothing in Frumin's world happens quickly unless you're specifically trying to chill and move slow. I will say that since Mike got unjustifiably restructured out of his job, he's been hookin' up some marvelous breakfasts, including scrabbled eggs w/potatoes, bacon, muffins (one with cream cheese, avocado, & bacon and another with cream cheese and jam), and some oj.

We finally rolled out an hour+ later. Mike managed to waste another half hour or so on the way there stopping pointlessly at breaks we new we weren't gonna surf.

Once we got to Upper's/Cotton's (Trestles Beach) the surf wasn't as big as thought it would be, but it was looking fun. I caught a few good ones, nothing spectacular, but solid rides that rivaled my better ones. We found Danimal, another one of my favorite people and a whole other story...haha...man I love that guy.

Best wave of my life so far...

This thing was a foot or two over head, lined up in front of me, and stayed open...which is a foreign concept to me all together. I got a couple nice pumps from top to bottom of the face, did a small cut back, pulled back up to the top to click a SMALL spray of the top and managed to even pop out of it before it closed out on me.

That's it...at least that's all that's really worth telling. I treated Mike to some Thai food, where a fine ass 45 year old woman and I flirted for a minute, head back to Mike's, chilled and I headed back home.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

gret story... tell the part about waiting for frumin to wake up again.